Jewish Museum and Reichstag

The Jeweler, Gisela Seibert 

Exterior Jewish Museum

Interior Courtyard at Jewish Museum

10,000 nameless metal faces 

Reichstag

Dome over the Reichstag

Interior of Dome

Looking down from ramps into the Parliament

Brandenburg Gate

After Breakfast we went for a hair appointment around the corner. Cathy needed to get her hair washed and I wanted a beard trim.

We returned to our hotel to await the arrival of a jewelry maker - Gisela Seibert. 10 years ago, Cathy had bought a ring that I especially loved while we were in Santa Fe that was created by Gisela. I wanted to wear it, but it didn’t fit me. We knew she lived in Berlin, and I tracked her down, telling her we were planning on visiting Berlin. I asked if we could meet her.

She agreed and came to our hotel today. She had about 15 rings she wanted to show us. None of the rings were what I wanted, but there was one ring that Cathy loved that also fit me. It was meant to be. Gisela, now is in her late 70’s, retired but she sort of promised to make me the ring that I wanted, but warned us it would take a year! We will see if its creation ever comes to fruition. She was a wonderful spirit and fun to talk to, I am glad we were able to spend time with her.

We then went to the Jewish Museum designed by Daniel Libeskind. It was not at all what I expected. I have seen pictures of it, with its very modern design, with slashes in the exterior walls. As we were in a taxi approaching the museum, I said to Cathy, "I don’t want to see a museum full of old Menorahs". This museum is anything but that. It is a totally disorienting experience. You walk randomly down narrow pathways that explore the history of the Jews in Berlin. Within the museum you come across vast open spaces filled with nothing - called Voids, symbolizing all that was lost in the Holocaust. It is a very moving and interesting experience, not at all like a traditional museum. It really is worth visiting.

We returned to the hotel, and Guillermo joined us for our next Berlin experience. We had planned a visit to the Reichstag, the German home of its parliament. Surprisingly this building although quite massive and old looking is not that old. It was opened in 1894 as the seat of Government. So much of World and German history is steeped in this massive building. After World War 1, with the abdication of the Kaiser, Germany became a democracy, but a very violent one, as various groups vied for power, fighting on the streets, killing each other. This was the famous Weimer Republic. Governments didn’t last very long, inflation was out of control, and Berlin was a wild, decadent city.

In 1933, there was a major fire destroying much of the Reichstag, and using the fire as a pretext, Hitler was able to consolidate his control of the government.

The building was heavily damaged during World War 2 and was finally magnificently restored  by the British Architect Norman Foster. I have seen many pictures of the Foster designed Glass dome over the Reichstag but had no idea what it really was about. You need to acquire tickets in advance to visit the dome, and then go through heavy security to visit the dome.

I was expecting vistas over the City of Berlin, but it is so much more than that. At the terrace level where the dome is built there is a history of the building that you read as you circumnavigate the dome. There is a walkway spiraling up to the top of the dome. You are given free headsets that explain the views as look out towards the city. The narration explains how you can look down through a glass ceiling in the center of the dome into the now functioning Legislature operating in the rebuilt chambers beneath the dome. They explain all of the energy saving design features. This is so much more than just a dome. I was thrilled that we visited it. It is a must see, if you ever visit Berlin, but get your tickets ahead of time. PS to get into the building you need a ticket and proper identification. 

A must see on every visit to Berlin is the Brandenburg Gate. This is the site of President Reagan's famous speech which included the lines "Mr. Gorbachev, open this gate! Mr. Gorbachev, tear down this wall!". We were walking towards the Adlon Hotel, to catch a taxi, and serendipitously came across the iconic gate, one of the great symbols of Berlin.

We then went out for what we consider a very disappointing dinner. Pauli Saal, is a 1-star Michelin rated restaurant, but after the exceptional dinner we last night at Nobelhart & Schmutzig, we felt it paled by comparison. It is a good example of how you can’t always rely on reviews. Tom, Scott and Guillermo joined us for out last dinner in together in Berlin, they are all leaving tomorrow for home. I won't recap the dinner, but rather remember fondly our dinner at Nobelhart & Schmutzig. After dinner it was back to our hotel.